What should you charge for electrical in 2026? Average rates range $150–$800 per job. See typical job costs, what affects pricing, and build a professional proposal.
Typical market range. Actual costs vary by region, job scope, and provider experience.
| Service | Typical Price Range |
|---|---|
| Outlet or switch installation | $100–$250 |
| GFCI outlet install | $130–$280 |
| Ceiling fan installation | $150–$350 |
| Recessed lighting (per light) | $150–$300 |
| Circuit breaker replacement | $150–$350 |
| Dedicated circuit (for appliance) | $200–$500 |
| Panel upgrade (200A) | $1,500–$4,000 |
| EV charger installation (Level 2) | $500–$1,500 |
| Whole-house rewire | $8,000–$20,000 |
Prices are U.S. market averages for 2026. Local rates vary.
Plug in the square footage and service type to get a starting price range for your market.
Estimated per-job price ($30–$50/hr effective rate)
Based on U.S. market averages. Adjust up 30–50% for metro markets, down 10–20% for rural areas.
Electricians use three pricing models and which one you'll see depends on the job size.
Per-item pricing is standard for small jobs: $100–$250 per outlet, $150–$350 per ceiling fan, $150–$300 per recessed light. This includes labor, materials, and the trip. If you're adding 1–3 outlets or swapping a few fixtures, expect per-item quotes.
Project pricing kicks in for bigger jobs. "Add 6 recessed lights to the living room" won't be 6 × $250. It'll be $900–$1,200 because the electrician is already there, the holes are clustered, and the wire runs share a path. Volume work is cheaper per unit.
Hourly pricing ($75–$130/hr) is used for troubleshooting — finding the source of a tripping breaker, diagnosing flickering lights, or tracing a dead circuit. These jobs have too much variability to quote flat. A good electrician will give you a diagnostic fee ($75–$150) and then a flat quote for the fix once they know what's wrong.
One pricing red flag: an electrician who only quotes hourly for standard work. Per-item and per-project pricing shows the electrician knows how long the job takes. Hourly-only on standard work means they're either slow or uncertain.
Your electrical panel is the heart of your home's power. If it can't keep up with demand, nothing downstream works right. Here's when you need an upgrade and what it costs.
You need a panel upgrade if: breakers trip regularly, you're adding a major appliance (EV charger, hot tub, electric range), your panel is under 150A in a home over 1,500 sq ft, you have a Federal Pacific or Zinsco panel (both recalled for fire risk), or you're adding a subpanel for a garage or workshop.
A standard 200A panel upgrade costs $1,500–$4,000 installed. That includes: new panel and breakers ($300–$600 in parts), labor (4–8 hours), permit and inspection ($150–$350), and utility coordination (they need to kill power to the meter temporarily).
The wide price range comes from three variables: whether the meter base needs replacing (add $500–$1,000), whether the main service entrance cable needs upgrading (add $500–$1,500), and whether the utility requires a new mast or underground run (add $1,000–$3,000).
Timeline: most panel upgrades take one day. The utility coordination — scheduling the disconnect and reconnect — is what takes 1–3 weeks of lead time. Start the process early.
An electrical proposal should be detailed enough that any licensed electrician could execute it — and any homeowner can understand what they're paying for.
Start with the scope. Not "add outlets to kitchen." Instead: "Install 3 new 20A GFCI outlets on dedicated circuits above kitchen counter (spaced per code at 4-foot intervals), including 12/2 Romex from subpanel in basement, new 20A breakers, and device-level GFCI protection."
Next: itemize the price. Separate labor from materials. For a kitchen outlet job: "Materials: $180 (wire, boxes, GFCI outlets, breakers). Labor: $450 (estimated 3 hours). Permit: $100. Total: $730." When clients see where their money goes, they trust the price.
Include what's excluded: "Drywall repair and painting after wire installation not included. Any code upgrades required by inspector will be quoted separately before work proceeds."
Specify the permit status: "Permit will be pulled before work begins. Final inspection will be scheduled within 5 business days of completion."
Add your license and insurance info. One line: "Licensed electrician #[number], insured to $1M general liability." Homeowners check this — and their insurance company might too.
Timeline: "Work will be completed in 1 day. Inspection within 5 business days. You'll have power throughout except for 15–30 minutes during panel connections."
EV charger installations are now the most common new-circuit request electricians get. A Level 2 home charger costs $500–$1,500 installed, but the total varies wildly based on panel capacity and wire run distance.
The charger itself costs $300–$700 (Tesla Wall Connector, ChargePoint Home, Grizzl-E). Installation labor runs $200–$800 depending on complexity. The variable is what your panel can handle.
Best case: your panel has space for a 50A breaker and the garage is directly below or adjacent. Run 30 feet of 6-gauge wire, install a NEMA 14-50 outlet or hardwire the unit, pull the permit. Total: $500–$800.
Worst case: your panel is full or undersized. You need a 200A upgrade ($1,500–$4,000), and the garage is on the opposite side of the house (80+ feet of wire run at $4–$8/foot). Total: $3,000–$6,000.
Most installs fall in the middle. Budget $800–$1,200 and get a quote before buying the charger — the electrician can confirm what amperage your panel supports and which charger models work with your setup.
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View Electrical template →Electricians typically charge $75–$130/hr for standard work, plus a service call fee of $50–$100. Most residential jobs are flat-rated per item ($100–$250 per outlet, $150–$350 per fan). Hourly billing is more common for diagnostic work and large projects.
Yes — nearly all electrical work beyond replacing fixtures and switches requires a permit. Your electrician should pull the permit and schedule the inspection. Work done without permits can void homeowner's insurance and creates problems when you sell the home.
Signs: frequently tripped breakers, flickering lights, panel under 150A in a home over 1,500 sq ft, Federal Pacific or Zinsco brand panel (fire hazard, both recalled), or you're adding a major load like an EV charger, hot tub, or electric range.
Standard outlet: $100–$250. GFCI outlet: $130–$280. 240V outlet (for dryer, range, EV charger): $250–$500. Cost depends on distance from the panel and whether the wire can be run through accessible spaces or needs to go through finished walls.
Level 2 home charger installation runs $500–$1,500 for standard installs. If your panel needs upgrading first, add $1,500–$4,000. The charger itself costs $300–$700. Get a quote before buying the charger — the electrician will confirm what your panel supports.
100A panels are found in older, smaller homes — fine if you have gas heat and appliances. 150A handles most modern homes. 200A is standard for new construction and required if you have central AC, electric heat, an EV charger, or a workshop. Most panel upgrades go to 200A because the price difference over 150A is minimal.
Plan $150–$300 per light installed, including the fixture, wiring, and trim. Volume discounts apply — 6 lights might cost $900–$1,200 total rather than $1,200–$1,800 individually. LED recessed lights are standard now and last 25,000+ hours.
Not inherently, but it's ungrounded, can't handle modern loads, and is a fire risk if it's been insulated over or modified. Most insurance companies either won't insure homes with knob-and-tube or charge a premium. Budget $8,000–$20,000 for a full rewire depending on home size.
Single outlet or fixture: 1–2 hours. Multiple outlets or a ceiling fan: half a day. Panel upgrade: 1 full day (plus 1–3 weeks of utility coordination beforehand). Whole-house rewire: 3–5 days for a typical home. The permit and inspection add 1–2 weeks to the overall timeline.
Legally, homeowners can do their own electrical work in most states — but you still need permits and inspections. DIY is reasonable for: replacing outlets and switches, swapping light fixtures, installing ceiling fans. Leave to a pro: anything in the panel, new circuits, any 240V work, and anything that requires fishing wire through walls.
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